Mitte: Sophienstraße

Until a few years ago I had a romantic fantasy about my future. I would have a good job and earn quite a lot money (because that is so typical for Berlin!) and live in a wonderful big flat in Sophienstraße in Mitte.

When I’d come home from work with my beautiful black Peugeot ladies’ bicycle (which actually existed when I started having this fantasy) I would stop at the small pralines and chocolates shop and buy handmade pralines to surprise my two children when they come home from ballet and violin class. After a family dinner in our big living room we would cuddle up in front of the (for my sake fake) fireplace, enjoy the chocolates and tea and I would read stories to my children until they’d fall asleep. My husband and I would switch to red wine and talk about our wonderful jobs and plans for the weekend.

On the weekends I would buy fresh vegetables on the farmer’s market at Hackescher Markt, carry everything home in a basket and cook wonderful meals. Every Sunday we’d play games, make trips to the countryside or meet the rest of the family.

Nothing of all this has ever come true. No husband, no children, no flat in Mitte. I do not even cook very well, and on the weekends I order pizza and try not to leave the house. My black Peugeot bicycle has been stolen in Prenzlauer Berg years ago.

But when I’m around Sophienstraße I still think of that sketch of a fairy tale life and feel good about it, because dreams do not always have to come true. Keep them as long as they serve a purpose!

gruß, heike.

Mitte: Where is the Old Town?

Have you ever noticed that Berlin does not have a classic historic centre with little streets and old buildings that remind the random contemplator of past times? If you’re looking for the beginning of Berlin’s history you will end up in Mitte in the area surrounding Museum Island and Alexanderplatz. This is the origin of the two villages Berlin and Cölln that have been existing next to each other at least since the 13th century, and from which in the following centuries, the city of Berlin developped by the incorporation of neighbouring villages. (We have to learn that stuff in primary school. And if you have ever seen pictures of these two nuclei of population you will agree that they look like a coffee bean.)

But still hardly anything can be found from oldest times if you’re standing on site.

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View from Lustgarten towards Arsenal and Humboldt University
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Berlin Cathedral (finished 1905)

The answer is more simple than you might have expected: The very centre of the city has been redesigned several times because it was needed for different purposes. Berlin has always been residence or capital of some political arrangement. The residence of the Margraves and Prince-electors needed a central spot with a residence palace in 1442. The palace was extended in 1702 by Friedrich I. (king) and became imperial residence in 1871 (until the end of WW I). To make matters worse there has actually been a time in the 19th century when old stuff was unwanted. How funny it is that at the end of the 19th century people would run into exhibitions to see paintings of what they called the old city of Berlin, which in this case means 17th and 18th century.

The palace was transformed into a museum during the Weimarer Republic and heavily damaged in WW II. When Berlin was divided after the war and Mitte became a part of the Soviet sector (East Berlin), the city center was transformed corresponding the requirements of a Socialist capital which of course wanted to get rid of any imperial traces. The City Palace was blown up and the Palace of the Republic was built on the exact spot. After the Wall came down there were new plans to rebuild or reconstruct the big space between the museums and the TV Tower to represent the center of the reunited Germany. So the Palace of the Republic was torn down as well and now they’re rebuilding the City Palace and talk about the restoration of historicity. (And isn’t that wonderful?)

There will also be a reunification memorial, an extension of the U-Bahn and some other stuff to lure tourists into the city. And because this is Berlin, everything is attended with a lot of scepticism and clamour of the people because everyone knows it best. 😉

If you want me to go deeper into the subject or if you have any questions, please let me know in the comments. I am sorry for the photos but yesterday was an awfully rainy day.

gruß, heike.