Mitte: Where is the Old Town?

Have you ever noticed that Berlin does not have a classic historic centre with little streets and old buildings that remind the random contemplator of past times? If you’re looking for the beginning of Berlin’s history you will end up in Mitte in the area surrounding Museum Island and Alexanderplatz. This is the origin of the two villages Berlin and Cölln that have been existing next to each other at least since the 13th century, and from which in the following centuries, the city of Berlin developped by the incorporation of neighbouring villages. (We have to learn that stuff in primary school. And if you have ever seen pictures of these two nuclei of population you will agree that they look like a coffee bean.)

But still hardly anything can be found from oldest times if you’re standing on site.

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View from Lustgarten towards Arsenal and Humboldt University
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Berlin Cathedral (finished 1905)

The answer is more simple than you might have expected: The very centre of the city has been redesigned several times because it was needed for different purposes. Berlin has always been residence or capital of some political arrangement. The residence of the Margraves and Prince-electors needed a central spot with a residence palace in 1442. The palace was extended in 1702 by Friedrich I. (king) and became imperial residence in 1871 (until the end of WW I). To make matters worse there has actually been a time in the 19th century when old stuff was unwanted. How funny it is that at the end of the 19th century people would run into exhibitions to see paintings of what they called the old city of Berlin, which in this case means 17th and 18th century.

The palace was transformed into a museum during the Weimarer Republic and heavily damaged in WW II. When Berlin was divided after the war and Mitte became a part of the Soviet sector (East Berlin), the city center was transformed corresponding the requirements of a Socialist capital which of course wanted to get rid of any imperial traces. The City Palace was blown up and the Palace of the Republic was built on the exact spot. After the Wall came down there were new plans to rebuild or reconstruct the big space between the museums and the TV Tower to represent the center of the reunited Germany. So the Palace of the Republic was torn down as well and now they’re rebuilding the City Palace and talk about the restoration of historicity. (And isn’t that wonderful?)

There will also be a reunification memorial, an extension of the U-Bahn and some other stuff to lure tourists into the city. And because this is Berlin, everything is attended with a lot of scepticism and clamour of the people because everyone knows it best. 😉

If you want me to go deeper into the subject or if you have any questions, please let me know in the comments. I am sorry for the photos but yesterday was an awfully rainy day.

gruß, heike.